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DOWNTOWN experiences the raw wonder of the African continent.
There is no single adventure on earth that can change your relationship with the universe like a safari. Ben Affleck, Grace and Robert DeNiro, David and Lauren Bush, Natalie Portman, and Matt Damon are just a few of the Downtown residents who have followed the call of the wild to experience the world’s most amazing wildlife habitat… Africa.
We put our planning in the hands of Phil West of Royal African Safaris, which has organized expeditions for everyone from Microsoft’s Paul Allen to Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands. West guided us during our amazing trip, taking beautiful pictures that illustrate the magnanimous imagery of this great continent.
THE GORILLAS
We fly into Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, on our quest to track some of the few remaining gorillas left in the world; only 800 still exist in the wild.
From here, we begin the two-hour trek to the comfortable Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, with six cottages nestled in the foot- hills of the volcanic Virunga Mountains—a chain of majestic 15,000 foot volcanoes that stretch through Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
We are here to encounter the legend- ary Silverback Gorillas, which the country considers a national treasure and whose numbers shrink every day. There are
now just 18 families of gorillas made up of 12 to 20 members remaining here.
After a hearty breakfast, we are briefed on the dos and don’ts of meeting with our forebears in the forest. Although we will get within 20 feet of these incredible crea- tures, our hosts warn us not to touch the gorillas—even if they touch us. This is not because of the danger they present to us, but the danger we present to them. Gorillas are susceptible to human diseases.
We are outfitted in gators and gloves to avoid the stinging nettles and thorn-cov- ered bushes we will encounter on our trek through the thick African brush. We are told that the most desirable destination will be the home of the Sabyinyo Family. It is the oldest gorilla family and possesses the largest Silverback, named Guhondo. He is a living, breathing King Kong. For the trek, we hire porters, who, for just $10 a piece, carry all our gear. If necessary, they will even carry us through the forest to the gorillas.
We amble through picturesque farm- lands planted with potatoes, wheat and fields of daisies, which are processed to create a natural insecticide. Once we tip- toe across a tightrope made of four slim, unlashed logs placed precariously over a rushing river, we are in the jungle.
It is here that we stroll along one of the most beautiful paths on the planet, bordered by an enormous grove of bam- boo trees, featuring sunlight streaming through the leaves.
Once through this oasis, our tracker’s job is to locate the gorillas. They use their machetes to cut a narrow trail up steep terrain to where the constantly moving gorillas make a new nest every night. When we get close to the great apes, our escort takes us to visit the family—one at a time and without a weapon.
When we encounter them, we find them surprisingly docile and hospitable, as long as we play by the rules. If a Silverback thinks you are getting too close to his offspring or harem, you must act submissive, avert your gaze and emit a slow grunt, which in gorilla language means, “I’m no threat.” Wise men don’t confront a gorilla, at least not the ones who want to stay alive.
A dominant Silverback can usually be seen regally gnawing on branches while he is groomed by his harem of females who pick the bugs from his hair. But, it’s the four babies that supply most of the fun during our visit. They are jumping, wrestling, climbing trees and beating their chests. One baby actually approaches and pushes me! Needless to say—I don’t push back. [Continues…]
By Joe Alexander
Photographs by Phill West
Africa is the highlighted travel destination of DOWNTOWN’s Summer 2014 edition. Continue reading the entire feature in the Passport section in DOWNTOWN’s latest issue, on newsstands now! Subscribe to DOWNTOWN Magazine for home delivery by clicking here.
Kifaru House