ADRIENNE CHEATHAM worked for Marcus Samuelsson and Eric Ripert; was a runner-up on Top Chef; and hosts Sunday Best, a monthly dinner series, in Harlem.
1. Name three women that inspire you, and tell us why. Susan Tentler, my mother, forged a path through the food industry during a time when it was especially difficult for women. She didn’t allow harassment, intimidation, or threats to keep her from pushing forward and working to reach a higher level. She left college to get married and have kids. Since then, she had to work extra hard to prove herself among peers that had finished when she moved into a more corporate setting. Her work ethic and determination inspires me everyday.
In the time that I was fortunate to know Fatima Ali, she inspired me in so many ways. She was always full of positivity and passion for everything she did. She accomplished so much, but there was still so much she wanted to do. She reminded me that while we’re working hard toward our goals, you have to keep what’s important in perspective; family and loved ones, nurturing relationships, and not letting fear or doubt hold you back. She would have done so much more, and I want to honor that by achieving everything I can while I can.
Lena Richard did it all in the food industry. She was a formally trained chef who’s talent and skills made her famous. She owned restaurants, created a frozen food company, wrote cookbooks, and had a cooking segment on television. This was all during the 1920’s-1940’s in Louisiana. Her legacy shows that you can overcome almost anything and realize your dreams if you don’t let things stand in your way. She also helped me see that while you may have one goal in mind, what you’re capable of accomplishing can be so much more than you thought.
2. What is the secret to your success? The secret to my success has been hard work. Things change frequently (in life, trends in industries, etc.) and you have to be adaptable. I set long-term goals and make decisions based on the potential to help get me there. At every step, I work my hardest to make sure that more opportunities follow that will lead to another step in the direction I want to go.
3. If you were going to pass on one piece of advice to a young woman, what would it be? There is so much advice I’d want to pass on that makes it hard to decide on one piece! One very important thing is to let go of fear. Don’t be afraid to ask questions; don’t be afraid to admit you don’t know something; don’t be afraid to stand up for yourself or others; don’t be afraid to be a leader; and don’t be afraid to be the best.
4.In the fight for equality, what area needs the most attention? In the fight for women’s equality, what needs the most attention is how we see women that are different from ourselves and how we treat each other as a result. It’s a subtle thing that takes the humanity out of our interactions. When we only see what’s different (race, etc.), we become blind to what we have in common—we lose the ability to relate and acknowledge them as a woman with hopes, fears, responsibilities, that also face some of the same challenges that we do. If you can’t see aspects of yourself in someone, there’s a tendency to overlook them or worse, dismiss their value. We have to be aware of this because uplifting women and gaining equality won’t happen if we can’t do it among ourselves.
5. What are you most proud of in your career? In my career, there’s a lot that I still want to accomplish but a lot that I’m proud of. Most of all, I’m proud that I followed my passion despite being scary and difficult; and even when the path was hazy, I worked hard to be better at my craft knowing that it would lead me to where I wanted to go.
LIDIA BASTIANICHEmmy award-winning public television host, seven-time James Beard award winner, best -selling cookbook author, restaurateur, and owner of a flourishing food and entertainment business. Lidia has married her two passions in life—her family and food, to create multiple culinary endeavors with her children, Joseph and Tanya. Owner of Felidia, Becco, Esca, and Del Posto. Along with daughter Tanyam she owns Lidia’s Pittsburgh and Kansas City. Partner in Eataly NYC, Chicago, Boston, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, and Sao Paolo, Brazil. Member of Les Dames D’Escoffier and founding member of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, two non-profit organizations of women leaders in the food and hospitality industries, and champion for the United Nations Association of the United States’ Adopt-A-Future program, in support of refugee education.
Downtown: Name three women that inspire you, and why.
Lidia Bastianich: I am inspired by Eleanor Roosevelt. I recall being a twelve-year old immigrant and learning about her in American history. This First Lady was already standing up for Women’s Rights and the rights of African Americans and she left quite an impression on me; Julia Child was a beacon of confidence and direction, especially when I was a young female chef in 1971 and opening up my first restaurant in an industry that did not easily embrace women. Her straightforward way of cooking and teaching America how to cook was an inspiration and confirmed that there was a place for women in the culinary industry. She visited me a decade later when we opened Felidia in Manhattan, and we remained friends until she passed away; I love classical music and am friends with great conductors such as Maestro Valery Gergiev. I was especially thrilled to see Marin Alsop, former conductor of the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra and current music director, join the ranks of such esteemed talent.
DT: What has been the secret of your success?
LB: I believe my success comes from the fact that I have always been passionate about food. I love what I do, and my work gives me a great amount of pleasure and rewards. I am always learning and discovering new things and am grateful to all the mentors along the way. My success is also based on the happiness that I feel when I can also give back and mentor young talented chefs coming into the industry.
DT: If you were going to pass on one piece of advice to a young woman looking for success, what would it be?
LB: To young women just starting out I say, gender is not what defines you in our industry; it is the belief that you have in yourself. Invest time in yourself and you will become better at your profession. Show passion and dedication and always be ready to learn.
DT: In the fight for women’s equality, what area do you think needs the most attention?
LB: The banks and financial institutions need to give more attention to women and their fight for equality. For women to grow and become owners in their industries, they need encouraging financial institutions to back them.
DT: What are you most proud of in your career?
LB: I am very proud of the support that I receive from my family and the fact that my children, Tanya and Joseph, are carrying on the businesses which are continuing to grow.
DT: Where do you get your confidence?
LB: I think confidence comes from within and from the people that surround you. So, believe in yourself and listen to others.
DT: What makes a woman beautiful?
LB: A woman is beautiful when she is confident, content and willing to share with others.
DT: What gives you joy?
LB: What gives me the most joy is to cook and nurture people and see them enjoy my work.
Lightroom, one of Adobe’s signature photo editing tools, might seem intimidating if you aren’t a photography professional, but new interactive tutorials are here to teach you how to make any photo look stunning. What makes these tutorials unique is that instead of watching the editing happen on a second screen, viewers are inside the application seeing sliders move and buttons pressed in real time as the expert edits the photo. Each step comes with written instructions and explanations for why each edit was chosen. Amazing photographers, including New York based food photographer Andrew Scrivani, have created tutorials to help amateurs learn to be Instagram all-stars.
The best part? All of this is free! Lightroom offers apps for Android and iOS at no charge. Users can upgrade to the paid version for additional features including cloud storage.
Photo by Andrew Scrivani
A recent workshop paired photographer Andrew Scrivani and chef Jehangir Mehta together to teach food writers about Lightroom, food styling, and how to reduce waste while still ending up with the perfect photo. Scrivani’s best tip for improving food photography in Lightroom? “For food shots, it is terrific to learn how to use the basic sliders for exposure, color and contrast. Just those beginning tools will show you great results and help you build confidence to dive deeper into the tools to enhance your shots even more.” You can learn from Scrivani in his tutorials on the Lightroom app.
Photo by Andrew Scrivani
Mehta prepared dishes that used parts of ingredients that would commonly be wasted. At his restaurant, Graffiti Earth, Mehta and his team do things like make mousse and ice cream out of food scraps like plant stems or used coffee grinds. One of his dishes for the workshop included a mousse made from fish heads, and the second used broken scallops, which are damaged scallops that would normally be tossed back by fishermen. Mehta encourages chefs and home cooks to make soup often because it’s a great way to use up ingredients.
Photo by Andrew Scrivani
One more piece of advice from Scrivani – how can you take good photos in a poorly lit restaurant? “Go to a better lit restaurant.” More info about new features from Lightroom can be found here.
“Our white asparagus is flown in from Europe every Thursday,” says Emmy-winning, and charming, Chef Erwin Schröttner co-owner and founder of Cafe Katja on Orchard Street. The rare and valuable delicacy’s short season lasts through mid-June, so the time to enjoy them is now.
At Cafe Katja, Chef Erwin serves the crisp, delicately flavored white asparagus stalks warm, with a variety of accompaniments including a delicious, eggy-but-light hollandaise and new potatoes, on a bed of frisée with a lemon vinaigrette, with a traditional pairing of Tiroler speck and drawn butter, and with ever so lightly smoked salmon and an herbaceous, bright green garlic sauce. To complement the white asparagus, Chef recommends a full-bodied Austrian wine Gebeshuber 2015 Muschelkalk Rotgipfler, or a delicious sparkling sec, Szigeti Grüner Veltliner.
White asparagus, or spargel, is celebrated with festivals throughout Europe, especially in Germany and Austria, where Chef Erwin grew up on a farm that has been in his family for hundreds of years. “We grew up in heaven in the foothills of the Alps,” he says, “with the freshest food, and learning the traditional ways of caring for animals and the land.” He recalls that his father, before butchering a pig for the family larder, would spend 15 minutes with the animal, thanking it, and paying respect. It is those memories of home, and the delicious food his mother and grandmother prepared for the family table, that inspired him to leave the world of 5-star restaurants and hospitality, and open Cafe Katja – a comfortably elegant neighborhood place named after his daughter, serving Austrian specialties.
Apfel strudel with schlag
Don’t sleep on this celebration of white asparagus, and other Austrian specialties like wiener schnitzel, house-made liverwurst, sausages, pickles, and pretzels – the white asparagus season ends in June. And save room for dessert. The cafe serves a stellar apfel strudel, with schlag, of course.
Smoked salmon
Cafe Katja does not take reservations, and is located at 79 Orchard Street. You can also learn more about Austrian cooking and traditions on Erwin Cooks, Chef Erwin Schröttner’s Emmy-winning PBS show.
Who better to be the first guest chef at Sushi on Jones than Chef Yuki Chidui of Japan’s Nadeshico Sushi, the only all-female sushi counter and restaurant in Akihabara, Tokyo. Chef Chidui will be offering a limited time 12-course menu inspired by her favorite subject, outer space, with each course named after a celestial body or theme. Chef Chidui started in the kitchen at a young age and endured common industry hardships as well as sex based discrimination. Instead of giving up, Chef Chidui decided to empower other women and speak out against industry injustice.
Highlights from her pop-up menu include Earth: Botenebi shrimp, yam, uni, and marinated blue seaweed; Jupiter: Hotate, honeycomb, and Daikon radish; and Venus: Toasted Kinmedai skin, cherry salt, and raw yuba fry. On Friday, May 17 and Saturday, May 18, Chef Chidui will be serving lunch at the Bowery Market location from 12:00–3:30 PM and dinner at the West 10th Street location from 5:00–10:30 PM.
Photo by Daniel Krieger
Sushi on Jones Bowery Market: 348 Bowery Street W 10th Street: 210 W 10th Street
Chef Natalia Vallejo, a one-woman powerhouse, is a culinary artist bringing Puerto Rican cuisine to the forefront of the farm-to-table and sea-to-land movement. Though Vallejo began her culinary studies in Puerto Rico, she took off to Argentina at an early age to continue her training. Her fearless attitude paid off, she has since made an indelible mark in the world of cuisine—even enjoying the honor of being invited to cook at the James Beard House this past December.
Vallejo’s initial path to South America led her on a culinary journey across the world, working as a chef in Argentina, Spain, and finally Chile before returning to her island just prior to Hurricane Maria. Her return though, was full of intention: to elevate Puerto Rican cuisine in the eyes of the world and help to create a self-sustaining culinary ecosystem on the island. Vallejo has stayed true to that goal, having worked with numerous farms, fisherman, and local sources in Puerto Rico in all her culinary endeavors, from her time as the head chef of Finca before Hurricane Maria changed her circumstances, to hosting and catering events and parties across the island.
Today, Vallejo is the proud owner, founder, and chef of Cocina al Fondo in Santurce, Puerto Rico. Her restaurant—which offers Puerto Rican dishes dosed with a bit of flavor from cities around the world—explores the history of the island’s culture through its flavors, recipes, and ingredients.
Downtown: How did you first start loving the art of cooking?
Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Chef Natalia Vallejo: I grew up watching my father cook. I was always fascinated by his mannerisms and his inventions in the kitchen. We, without a doubt, ate very differently from others. My father was incredibly innovative in the kitchen. I remember he used to make fresh pasta and he would hang it to dry all over the house. He also always had a small herb garden and various fruits and citruses growing in our backyard over the years. Those gardens are what first helped develop my curiosity about where food came from.
Downtown: Tell us about your formative years cooking. Where did you begin?
NV: I began studying the culinary arts at the Hotelera in San Juan, Puerto Rico. I later decided to go to Buenos Aires to study the culinary arts professionally.
Downtown: What made you leave Puerto Rico for culinary school in Argentina?
NV: I felt an incredible necessity to see other cultures and cities.
Downtown: What was that experience like and what did you take from it?
NV: I went at a very young age, so for me, it was an experience that entailed reconnecting with myself and with my culture. A culture clash is always helpful in connecting you to your roots. Argentina did that for me. It was a time of discovery in many aspects, especially in the discovery that I had a grand passion for the kitchen and the culinary world.
Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown: What drew you to Barcelona to pursue your career?
NV: After I finished my studies in Argentina, I returned to Puerto Rico to work. I spent various years working in the kitchens of Puerto Rico after which I decided to go to Barcelona on a search for new experiences. I wanted to learn more about Spanish cuisine.
Downtown: What did living and cooking in Barcelona teach you?
NV: It showed me to value the product, to respect it, and to learn about the distinct varieties and strains within each product, its inherent value, and the importance of supporting what is native to each region.
Dish by Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown:
Who were some of the chefs you cooked with, worked with, broke bread with, that
formed a part of your cooking history?
NV: I have had many colleagues. The ones that have most impacted me in one form or another include Veronica Quiles, Alfredo Ayala, Martin Louzao, and Gonzalo Galbete.
Downtown:
What made you decide to leave Spain for Chile?
NV: I wanted to continue to expand my search or quest if you will for knowledge and various experiences. And I wanted to continue connecting with other cultures. I felt a huge connection with the ancestry of South America.
Downtown: Tell us about your time cooking in Chile?
NV: I began working at an Italian restaurant in Chile where I made fresh pastas and various sauces for the pasta dishes. I remember the kitchen had a view of the bay in Valparaiso where I lived for three years. I liked the diversity of all the products from the sea. I loved going to the markets full of fisherman selling their catches. It was fascinating to buy mussels and be able to go from kiosk to kiosk to choose them by size. The pippin is the national fish, and I always cooked it on the grill. It was delicious. Chile has so much to offer, especially in regards to gastronomy and wine. I learned so much from the simplicity in their recipes coupled with their great products and ingredients.
Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown: If you could choose one favorite dish from each country you have lived and worked as a chef, which would they be and why?
NV: In Argentina, the pumpkin and chicken casserole. The flavor of the roasted pumpkin had a great effect on me. In Spain, the sauces of refried beans with chili pepper, white garlic, and grilled fish left a big impression on me. Spain helped connect me to a manner of cooking products simply, allowing their natural flavors to be highlighted. From Chile, the corn cake and pomegranate seed dish. It brings back the memory of cooking for a large group of people and always using the ingredients on hand and in season.
Downtown: What drew you back to Puerto Rico to live and work as a chef?
NV: I felt an incredible desire to reconnect with my roots and contribute the results of my teachings and experiences in work and life to my own country from all these countries I had lived in. Puerto Rican cuisine has immense value and we must rescue and preserve our ancestral recipes and connect anew with the agriculture of our island. I want to inspire people to value what we have, to know it, understand it, and to know our history in order to continue raising awareness and prevent us from deteriorating as a country. Hurricane Maria made us close Finca, the restaurant I formerly headed, but nowadays I appreciate everything I have lived, all the learning that came with it, and the strength to reinvent myself that it left me with.
Cocina al Fondo by Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo; Follow the restaurant: @cocinaalfondo
Downtown:
You were the head chef at Finca prior to Hurricane Maria hitting. What did that
teach you about how you wanted to run your own kitchen?
NV: After shutting Finca down because of the effects of the hurricane, I found myself in a very vulnerable situation, like many other Puerto Ricans. At the same time, the situation forced me to reinvent myself and look for other ways to move ahead. I started to work many private events, catering, you name it. Miraculously, I kept receiving calls for catering jobs, events, etc. I always wanted to be my own boss, and Maria pushed me into achieving that goal.
Cocina al Fondo by Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown:
What was life like after the hurricane and the subsequent closing of Finca?
NV: I think every day I gained more awareness and interest in working the land. The agricultural community in Puerto Rico continues to grow every day. We are more united and empowered as a result of our colonial situation. Maria swept the island and we saw ourselves in such a vulnerable situation—the U.S. government controlled absolutely everything and it caused chaos and tragedy. I think in that moment, many of us reaffirmed the importance of sowing the earth, self-managing, and uniting to break the dependence on imported foods and goods. Puerto Rico’s land is very fertile and there are many hands willing to work it. As a chef, I recognize the importance of supporting the farmers and forming part of that change/movement. There is no other way of being a country or caring for your motherland than to unite with the land and those who work it day by day. If you read about the history of Puerto Rico, you can see when and how the US cut off the farmer and imposed a plan of dependence on their goods and services. This took away our strength and the notion that we had all we needed to be well. Every land on this earth is alive and it is important to reconnect with it. Our land is waiting for us—there is a global call for all to connect with that root where everything broke.
Cocina al Fondo by Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown: What about the island you grew up on drew you to understand the earth more—and the art of producing food that celebrates the earth?
NV: Just visualizing the island and all it has to share with the world—gastronomically speaking—helped me understand the earth more. If the world would stop seeing us as a colony of the US, they would realize Puerto Rico is much more beyond that idea. Our island is more than beautiful beaches, mofongo, luxury hotels, reggaeton, and casinos. We have a lot of history, a lot of culture, and a lot of talent. For me personally, Puerto Rico is a mountain, it is full of our ancestors still pining to be heard. The mountains of Puerto Rico are also full of wonderful projects by young people who have wanted to show their gratitude and connection to the earth. Our gastronomy has not yet been valued or exalted. This is what I would like to help achieve in Puerto Rico in collaboration with the farmers who are helping to rescue the lost wealth and harvests of Taino ingredients, recpies, etc. I would like us to see ourselves again so we can share who we really are—without anyone or any country come to label our culture or gastronomy. We are so much more than mofongo and fritters.
Downtown:
Tell us about what was and is so invigorating about the farming and culinary
community in Puerto Rico right now?
NV: I feel fortunate in regards to everything I have lived as a chef. Having my own restaurant now allows me to reach more people and relay the message on the importance of Puerto Rican cuisine with great pride and courage. I work with my memory in regards to those that visit me. I transport them to their childhood and connect them to their ancestors through food. That is my greatest gift. To open the door to powerful questions. Is our cuisine alive? Do we recognize it? Does it connect us to our ancestors?
Downtown: Tell us about the James Beard House invitation! What was the event?
NV: I was recently invited to the James Beard House in NY to interpret and create a Puerto Rican Christmas dinner along with three other Puerto Rican chefs. I was honored, and it was an incredible experience to be able to carry this message of cuisine through the meal. Puerto Rico is ready and is open to those who would like to truly know and understand the island.
Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown:
Why was this invitation so special to you as a chef, a woman, and a Puerto
Rican?
NV: It was important because at the time I still did not have a fixed restaurant. I worked and put together many culinary events, but I did not have a place to call my own after the hurricane. I felt that by being invited, my underlying message of promoting Puerto Rican cuisine was reaching and resonating with a lot of people. I felt that I was invited precisely for my efforts to elevate Puerto Rican cuisine in the eyes of the world—that filled me with much happiness and pride.
Chef Natalia Lucia Vallejo.
Downtown: What inspired the menu for that even?
NV: It was a collective work with the three other invited chefs. Everyone contributed their piece. Creating a menu between four people is very challenging but we were able to persevere!
Downtown: You just opened up your own restaurant in Santurce. Tell us about it!
NV: I was looking for a location in the San Juan vicinity. In that time period I received a call from Naima Rodriguez tell me about how she had contracted this giant space with room for a restaurant in the back. Her idea was to create a cultural, gallery-like space with another business in the back. I went to see it and my intuition told me it was a great opportunity. All the chips started falling into place. My friend Natalia Martinez decorated the space, instilling a wonderful ambiance into it while I set up. I turned it over and over in my mind until I had the concept and name in place. We are in the back of the Publica space, so I called it Cocina al Fondo. Each business in this space is working cohesively within their own identity. These types of collaborations make me very happy because I feel that joining efforts can lead to beautiful results.
Friends and Family Opening of Cocina al Fondo.
Downtown:
What is on your menu?
NV: It is a Puerto Rican-based menu with influences from other cultures in which I have had the opportunity to live in and visit. I work a lot within the memory of those flavors that transport one back to their childhood. I also like to work with vegetables in unexpected and fun ways.
Downtown: What dish will never leave the menu?
NV: A chicken soup filled with balls of mofongo, chayote, and avocado.
Downtown: How does it feel to have returned to your beautiful island and contributed so much to this return of hope and belief in the power of the island and what it has to offer?
NV: I am extremely happy to have found a space and a healthy way in which to live on this island. It is not easy. I am very aware that it is not the reality of many. There are many things happening on the island that makes people want to leave. I can understand why some leave and I respect it enormously. It is even admirable and courageous. It is for this reason and others that I am grateful every morning to be able to be here and contribute even the smallest grain of hope and help through what I do. And I do not want to waste that opportunity.
Dish from Cocina al Fondo.
Downtown: If
you could cook and share a meal with any chef living or passed, who would it be
and why?
NV: It would be with Gonzalo Galbete, my chef and mentor in Barcelona. He opened my eyes and helped me rescue my love for cooking. When I first saw him lead a kitchen he broke all the schemes and ideas I had in mind. He was 20 years old and had worked in several kitchens in Puerto Rico and Argentina by the time he arrived in Barcelona. At that moment I understood how toxic it can be to work in a kitchen and the importance of generating a friendly work environment filled with respect. It’s something he does not know he taught me, but he made me see many things that I still hold tight and defend today.
Downtown: What is next for you?
NV: My plan is to continue growing, learning, and developing. I have many ideas and projects in mind. I want to stay in Puerto Rico.
